Two Jumps Home

Our first jump from Guanajuato got us into Dallas Forth Worth airport Friday afternoon.
We decided to overnight in Texas rather than push hard to complete the journey home in a single day.
With a relaxed dinner and a goodnight's sleep behind us, we'll be ready to tackle the back yard jungle as soon as we return to the nest!

For the final blog post, I'll upload some highlight photos of the Guanajuato/San Miguel area once we return home and settle in.

Farewell Guanajuato!

I'll be the first to admit that these four weeks in Guanajuato have provided some personal challenges for me . . .

Nevertheless, I am grateful for the lessons learned and the insights gained during this journey.

I have a renewed appreciation for the many blessings I tend to take for granted.

Oh yes, of course, there are the creature comforts . . . unlimited hot water, a spacious home,  soft bed pillows, and ready access to any material object we might need . . .

                     Yes, the accommodations are spare . . .

 But, "Up on the Roof" is an oasis in the middle of a bustling, vibrant city where we can sit and sip while we listen to the musical revelry of those younger and more energetic than we.

Strategically placed Guanajuato plazas provide inviting spaces to gather day and night.  We see people reaching out to one another constantly . . . grandmothers walking hand-in-hand with grandchildren; couples strolling around the Jardin de la Union, arms interlocked; passionate embraces in out-of-the-way corners; young couples pushing strollers; children kicking their soccer balls around the benches . . . musicians seranading the diners in the open-air cafes, hoping for a few pesos in return; vendors selling all manner of arts and crafts.

 Mimes entertaining the crowd seated on the Teatro Juarez steps on Sunday afternoon and then passing the hat.

  School children practicing their dance steps in front of the school in Plaza Mexiamora, just up the street from us.
. . . People are SO accessible to one another here . . . and as a result, personal space is defined VERY differently!  Touch  - even between strangers approaching one another on the narrow sidewalks - is the norm.  My initial gringa response was to take personal offense.  I am SLOWLY realizing that frequent bumps are not meant as a personal affront, as they might be in the US culture . . . .
I find myself taking a step back, assessing my reactions, and accepting cultural standards and behaviors as they are . . .  easier to do as departure time draws near!

The BELLS, BELLS, BELLS!

Edgar Allen Poe must have composed his poem about The Bells here in Guanajuato during the Lenten season!

Late into the evening and then early (yes, BEFORE dawn!) in the morning the tintintabulation goes ON and ON and ON, calling The Faithful to Daily devotions.  
I now have a whole new appreciation for the the phrase, "Hells Bells"!
. . . Guanajuato - The City of SOUND!

Count Down!



A City of Musicians!

Our last week here in Guanajuato . . . SUCH a beautiful city!  The architecture, the churches, the weather, the food, the concerts, the vistas, the museums, the fountains and plazas and statues . . .

Dance lessons in the Plazuela Mexiamora

To be honest, we have a hard time keeping up with the nightlife.  Weekend street music . . . a little bit goes a L-O-O-O-O-N-G way!

Still Life Study

We have enjoyed GREAT relaxation time up on the rooftop terrace - several books read, some water color time and then good evening conversations with neighbors over a sip of something. . . .

Our Terrace from above

Pen/Ink Sketch of the Terrace View

Perros y Gatos de Guanajuato and San Miguel

From our vantage point from the rooftop terrace, we can see a number of four-legged neighbors in nearby rooftop kennels.  They stand guard above the alleyways - announcing the comings and goings of the local folks during the day and "singing" along with the night time revelers.

 It's GOT to be tough to be a Saint Bernard in the hot  weather!

 The gato below seems unconcerned with the foot traffic that is close by - probably because it is safely sequestered behind iron gates on its own private patio.

 These are our closest four legged neighbors.  The smaller pup can get quite vocal when Larry leans over the wall to greet them

 WE think that the BEST place to be a Mexican dog is in San Miguel, at the Instituto des Artes show room, living in the lap of luxury!

The cat at the local internet cafe set up camp inside our laptop satchel a few mornings ago.  Larry had quite a time evicting it when we were done with our wifi session!  Claws came out just enough to foil each removal attempt.  Finally, Larry unceremoniously dumped the insulted feline out onto the chilly tiles.  Alas, my camera was left at the casita that day....

Night Lights of Guanajuato!

Templo de San Diego

Guanajuato takes on a magical feel at night!  The hillsides glitter and the streets and plazas come alive with minstrels, families, vendors, hopped up cars and tourists. 
The weekends are especially joyful, with large bands of singers in the callejones (alleyways), loudly seranading the surrounding neighborhoods into the wee hours of the morning.  For a small fee, one can join one of these traveling choirs, lead by troubadours OR one can listen from the rooftop terrace while sipping on a touch of grappa. 
Que noche bonito!

Teatro Juarez.  Note the muses at the rooftop!

View from the terrace - Iglesia San Francisco

Plaza de la Paz

San Miguel Luxury/Villa Mirasol

YES!  I admit it!  I LOVE breakfast served on a white linen tablecloth!  And I LOVE having coffee at Starbucks in the Jardin!

 I LOVE having a room nestled back in a cozy nook!  And I LOVE taking showers and actually getting ALL the shampoo rinsed out of my hair before the hot water runs out!

 I LOVE having someone ELSE make my bed every day!  I LOVE having internet connection in our room so I can blog in my jammies!

I LOVE sitting on a little private patio with my sweety pie and having a relaxed afternoon chat over beer, totopos and salsa!

Our accommodations at Villa Mirasol are over-the-top wonderful!  We are being spoiled rotten and are LOVING every minute!

Exploring San Miguel

San Miguel Transportation

 San Miguel is a town where one is just as likely to encounter four-legged foot traffic as cars.
Here, we notice a slower, more relaxed pace and easier walking........
The Jardin (town square) in front of La Parroquia - the parish church in the center of town, is the hub of religious activity....especially on Ash Wednesday.  The Faithful displayed ashes on their foreheads after church services.
We spent a lot of time today just walking around and getting our bearings.  You don't have to walk too far to find a small neighborhood square or park where people gather on benches in the shade.

LOTS of gathering spots

Native Dress during a weekend celebration

 This photo from a few years ago shows the amazing native dress that comes out the first weekend in March.  Many people from surrounding villages process into the city to dance and celebrate the Conquest of Christ.  For a few days, modern life and successful careers are set aside for traditional dancing, feasting and celebration.  The native dance costumes are hand-made and hours of practice produce an incredible weekend of sights, sounds and tastes!

A square near the mercado

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San Miguel Bound!

This afternoon, we'll jump on a bus to San Miguel de Allende, the center of creative energy in these parts.  This is a smaller city than Guanajuato - more like a town, actually - a creative magnet that pulls in artists from around the world.  The expat community is solidly entrenched.

               The posted photos are from previous visits. More to follow in the next few days!

Overlooking San Miguel de Allende

The Basilica in centro SMdA

Dancer celebrating Christ's Conquest
Procession happens first weekend in March

Sunday Afternoon Family Time

Sr. Espinoza

Unfortunately, my camera didn't do me any good sitting up in our casita while we took our Sunday stroll yesterday.  I promise to take it with me NEXT week, so I can share the street scene - - mimes entertaining the crowd seated on the steps of Teatro Juarez and a bronze "statue" in the square, that comes to life as people near him to pose for a photo op!  The tiendes (street market) with all manner of goods en vende (for sale).  Larry bought sunglasses; I bought starry nail glitter for my pedicure.
Tuesday, we depart for 5 days in San Miguel de Allende - the center of creativity in this area. 
San Miguel has become home for a large expatriate community of artists.  The pace there is slower than that of Guanajuato.

Okay then - - I will dig back a few years to previous trips and see if I can find some fun photos for your viewing enjoyment!

Larry making a chicle (gum) purchase

Guanajuato Troubadour

Two Guanajuato Heroes!

Basilica Interior

Weekend Revelry

The "thump-thump" of weekend fiesta rhythms - so much a part of the Latin lifestyle -  prevailed relentlessly throughout Friday and Saturday nights.  Ear plugs did nothing to stop the continuous invasion of the chest-vibrating reverberations.  Finally, just before dawn, blessed silence blanketed the remnants of the night.  Rest was short-lived however, as the insistent, early morning tolling of the cathedral bells called the faithful to mass.  It is now 11:30 Sunday morning and the citizens of Guanajuato are slowly emerging and my irritated reaction in the darkness has been tempered by strong coffee and a good breakfast.

But enough about gringa complaints!  How about a view of some more of the city!

Don Quijote

Balcony in alley up to Pipila Summit

Hummers!

La Basilica

Hike to Pipila!

 For Friday's walk, we climbed up the hillside steps to the statue of Pipila.  The winding alleyways hid residences behind massive wooden doors and flower-laden balconies.   It was a great hike!  The view of the city below was breath-taking!  Anticipating an evening at the symphony in Teatro Principal, we prepared for a late night with an afternoon siesta.  The three pieces performed by the University of Guanajuato Symphony was presented on Mexican terms - relaxed and casual - a blend of Gershwin and Latin classical.  Very enjoyable!

Callejone to Pipila

A secret pathway!

Our terrace as seen from the Pipila Statue

After a post-hike nap in the afternoon, we attended a concert at Teatro Principal in the evening.
A nice conclusion

In Search of Donkey Jote

Hometown Boy - Diego Rivera!

An up-close look at the Cathedral we can see from the terrace

Don Quixote!

The View - minus the ironwork!

Earlier this week on a walk around Centro, our first attempt at locating the gringo book store was unsuccessful.  Maybe because we had misspelled the name of this establishment...  Don Quixote was no where to be found - HOWEVER, right behind a statue of Diego Rivera was a tiny, nondescript doorway into the "Donkey Jote" bookstore.  My find was a middle-eastern cuisine cookbook!

More Walking Photos

Plazuela Meximora as seen from our rooftop terrace

Entryway to our Casita

Artistic Security Ironwork!