The Endless Trail

It's been a challenge to load pictures of the dancers in San Miguel onto the blog. Here is another dancer and I'll try to add more later.

Eight hours across country from San Miguel to Guadalajara stretched us to the limits of our endurance!.... a burro on the edge of the busy, two-lane road packed with bus and truck traffic, vehicles creating a third lane to pass by "nudging" our rigs over to the shoulder, new construction as we entered Guadalajara which made the tricky access to the RV park unrecognizable from last year. Ahh, but the cerbeza tasted especially good once we settled into our spots under trees loaded with new birds in Tajos RV park! Books and binoculars came out to aid us in identifying the local feathered friends. Jesus appeared to us as we sat in the shade of the trees, discussing the adventures of the day...... (no, not THAT One..... this was "HAY-soos", a nice gentleman who offered hand-embroidered shirts and dresses for sale, as well as his services as a guide into Guadalajara.) The Saturday traffic was some of the worst we've driven in. Our journey started shortly before 8 AM, with an easy leg south toward Celaya where we merged onto Mex 45D (the "D" indicates a toll highway). Parts of the autopista had been "repaired", but were so rough that it was like going over topes at freeway speeds. Not a very impressive cuota road! We skirted Irapuato and took the bypass around the south side of the city. We were trying to avoid traveling through the city of Guadalajara, so our route took us through the city of La Piedad de Cabadas ..... again. Once through a few days ago had not been enough punishment for us! Signs were confusing, truck traffic was heavy, and drivers seemed impatient to pass and be on their way. Mid-journey, we wondered over the CB radios WHY we didn't wait until Sunday to travel, when the trucks would be off the roads! We traveled on the North side of Lake Chapala, through the towns of Chapala and Ajijic.....expatriot establishments with beautful gated residences. We came into Guadalajara from the southwest approach and camped south of the city.
It's Monday morning and we're rested and have regained our composure. We're off to Guadalajara by taxi today to check out furniture, etc. for the condos.
More pics will be added to this entry later!

Dancers in San Miguel

During the first weekend in March each year, villagers from the towns surrounding San Miguel de Allende process into the cityin their native dress and dance around the square in front of the cathedral. This is in celebration of the indigenous peoples' acceptance of Christ. We arrived by taxi at the square about 10:30 Friday morning, expecting activities to begin about 11. Drums were already beating, and dancers were swirling and flowing and swaying to the rhythms. We rushed to see what we thought was the end of the celebration. There were probably 40 dancers on the street to start. A few minutes later from another direction came a second group of dancers from a different village, dressed in entirely different ceremonial garb. They entered the other side of the square to the beat of their own drummers. The crowd flowed in their direction and enjoyed the dance.This continued, with more groups entering the square and rotating around so that each group had a turn dancing in front of the cathedral. For three hours the dancing continued. Feather head dresses, sequinned robes, ankle rattles adorned people of all ages, from toddlers to ancients. Banners identified the different groups. The atmosphere was electric with sights and sounds that touched the soul......Among the dancers mingled folks with cameras, garbed in expensive outfits, who looked as if they had just stepped off of Rodeo Drive. Okay, so there were some others..... rough looking bohemians from the hills of Oregon! The mix of cultures gave the square a surrealistic atmosphere....a blend of cultures that seems somehow to work, though mainly to the benefit of the expatriots who have settled in this enchanted mountain city.San Miguel de Allende has become an artist's colony, where exclusive art galleries and fine shops abound. The real estate priceshave skyrocketed and their are few good buys to be found. The hand-crafted tops we found in Uruapan for 100 pesos are 350 pesos in SM. Tomorrow morning (Saturday), we will leave bright and early...headed for Guadalajara. There, we will spend a few days and do some research for furniture and appliances for the condo in Mazatlan.

Guanajuato-City of Mines

It was tough to leave Uruapan, but we were anxious to for our annual visit to Guanajuato, one of our favorite cities. After a long, challenging day on the road, which included maneuvering through the city of Irapuato as we traveled North, we arrived at the Bugambille RV park, 9 kilometers out of the city. Mexican road signs in the larger cities can be very confusing, when they are even posted. Our two rigs are relatively small though, so when we do get turned around, we have learned to remain calm and look for and then follow the parade of trucks that know the route through the city. The state of Guanajuato is the breadbasket of Mexico, providng plentiful fruits and vegetables as well as a wealth of other natural resouces. In the days when Mexico was known as Nueva Espana and when the resources of Mexico were exploited by Spain, the colonial cities became the centers of insurgency. Many very influential local leaders sacrificed their lives to free Mexico from the clutches of the Spanish empire. The museums in these colonial cities dramatically tell the history of this land. The mines have been closed in Guanajuato for some time and the shafts have become tunnels for streets around the city. There are stairways and narrow alleys that wind up and down and ALL around! It's a great walking city! We bussed into town Sunday morning and walked to the local market, hoping to find some interesting crafts. The Sunday market turned out to offer mainly produce.....so we stocked up on avocados, strawberries and fresh garbanzo beans still in the shell. The vendor sprinkled some lime juice and chile powder on the bean.....yum! Kind of like edamame. The journey back toward centro, on the pedestrian streets provided great photo opportunities! Lots of families were out for their Sunday afternoon strolls through the various squares. I wish I could have taken a picture of one little baby girl dressed in the most beutiful white embroidered dress! We try to not look TOO touristy, so I kept my camera in its case.... We stopped at a sidewalk cafe near the square for a late brunch and enjoyed the orchestra concert. Phil would have been inspired by "Pomp & Circumstance"! A bus ride back to the RV park and cool cerveza ....ahhhh siesta time!

Inland to Uruapan

A day's drive inland North from Lazero Cardenas up highway Mex 37 (a nice toll road with just a few four-footed pedestrians along the edges),found us at elevation 5200 feet, in the city of Uruapan. Maneuvering through the city to our destination Hotel Pie de la Sierra, was a bit difficult, but well worth the challenge! The hotel provided us with a grassy spot to park, water and electricity, use of the pool and internet access, hot showers and a great restaurant with a spectacular view.......five-star accommodations! My kind of resort living! This hotel has not yet been discovered by many gringos and has a narrow access road.....SO, most patrons are local families who use it as a weekend retreat. It was a welcome change from the Ixtapa sand lot.......Friday morning after breakfast in the restaurant, we took a taxi into centro and walked around town, ending up at a national park where springs flow out of the ground.

It was a magical green space...(plants on steroids!).....with walking paths paved with black stones that follow the flow of the water. The rest of the afternoon was spent back at Pie de la Sierra by the pool. I had a nice swim.

Resort Living?

Monday we reached Ixtapa, our southern-most destination on the coast. This town, along with neighboring Zihuatanejo, have morphed into destination resort towns in recent years that have grown to depend increasingly on tourist revenue. Thousands of tourists arrive by RVs, planes, and cruise ships....looking for ways to spend their money.....fishing, fine dining, massages on the beach,shopping for trinkets and goodies in the Zihua marketplace and partying late into the night.

We camped at Playa Linda, a sandy parking lot looking out onto the bay and up at a big pink hotel. Adjacent to the camping area was a sanctuary of sorts with crocodiles fenced in what probably once was a beautiful estuary. The birds.......egrets, wood storks, spoonbills, cormorants, herons, kingfishers, etc.....flocked in to dine on the fish in the marsh, keeping a wary eye on the crocs. Oops! I didn't download pictures from the camera to the computer so I'll edit this and add pics later! You'll enjoy the croc! This " teaser" pic is of a feathered fisherman at Maruata

Tuesday we bussed over to Zihuatanejo for a day of exploring the vendor markets and shops on the waterfront. I think the bus drivers felt it was beneath their macho dignity to slow for the many potholes and bumps on the road between Ixtapa and Zihua, so the rides were REALLY exciting!

We sat in the back of the buses, which magnified the effect of the rides to carnival proportions!After a final day of relaxing, we decided to head inland and up to the mountain city of Uruapan on Thursday......destination: Hotel Pie de la Sierra.

South to Ixtapa

Hola from Uruapan! This is the first opportunity I have had to report on our travels since we left Melaque last Saturday, due to the lack of internet cafes on the beaches along the coast. Since we "free camped" along the way, accommodations were minimal!

After a great reunion with our Melaque friends we've met these past few years, we departed Melaque with friends/travel companions Lonnie and Kathy Dunham and headed south down the coast along a narrow. winding road.....destination: Maruata.... a sleepy little town known for Lupita's fabulous baked goods, magically created throughout the day in her palapa next to the bay....from cinnamon buns in the morning to pizza made to order for dinner. Her reputation is well-deserved!

Next to the bay is an absolutely spectacular stretch of beach where sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs in the sand.

Environmental groups are dedicated to assuring the survival of the turtles by relocating the eggs to protected sites where the eggs are reburied and their progress monitored. Once the baby turtles hatch, they are escorted across the beach and out to the surf where they are released into the ocean without having to run the gauntlet of sea birds who feed on them.

Poachers also compete for the newly laid eggs as a source of food and income. It is a nightly race to see who can follow behind the turtles and collect the eggs just as soon as they are laid. Sometimes, if there is too much light and commotion, the turtles turn around and head back into the ocean without laying their eggs.

These little places are being discovered by travelers from up North who aren't always aware of their impact of their presence.

Sunday, we camped at a public beach further down the coast, along with some other travelers. Glenn, a "mate" from Australia, shared his experiences of traveling the past two years around South America....this done in an old "beater" truck with a canopy. We didn't see the interior of his rig, but he seemed to have a good supply of ice cold beer in the back!

We arrived in Ixtapa Monday....a resort town just south of Lazero Cardenas. The next journal entry will give the details of our three days spent in Ixtapa and the cruise ship destination town of Zihuatanejo, located between Manzanillo and Acapulco. LOTS to share!

Melaque

Stars are brighter here! Orion and the Big Dipper are spectacular!
Street animals abound...feathered and four-legged.
Yesterday's tienges (weekly market) was packed with goodies! Food, crafts, jewelry, clothing, household items. It is a good idea to limit the pesos in the pocket because there are so many tempting things to buy!
We will enjoy some good local food tonight at Taco Surf, just off the town square, to celebrate Larry's birthday!