This year, the luxury of time (and hotel accommodations in Guanajuato, I might add) allowed us to explore two of our favorite cities in depth and with a touch of luxury not found in camper traveling. (Picture 5-Statue of troubadour next to Teatro Juarez)
In years past, we have stayed in an RV park out of town . . . which required a hot, dusty bus ride into centro, with a return to camp before the city of Guanajuato came alive in the evening.
Hotel Luna, situated at the hub of the city - El Jardin de la Union, gave us an entirely different perspective on this World Heritage city. (Picture 2 - Chandalier in interior courtyard of Hotel Luna)
The energy of the community is contagious! A gentleman named Manuel took us on a walking tour around Centro and shared tales of leftist artist Diego Rivera, who was raised in Guanajuato, and author Miguel Cervantes - who wrote the book about the hilarious antics of Don Quixote - the cross-eyed, one-armed conquistador - and his side-kick Sancho Panza. (Picture 4-Statue of Don Quixote - wearing a shaving bowl as a "hat". The "bite" is where the bowl fit around the neck of a man being shaved.)
Guide Manuel, who went back to school at the university at age 60 to learn English and to study the history of his country, told us of Mexico's War for Independence from Spain and France, headed initially by Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, the radical parish priest from Dolores, who championed the well-being of the peasants, though he, himself was a "crillo" - born of pure blooded Spanish parents.
Father Hidalgo worked for a peaceful take-over of the government. However, when his plans were uncovered by the Royalists, Father Hidalgo sounded the bells of the church and delivered a stirring sermon - the Grito de (Cry of) Dolores - calling for a revolt against the oppressors. A rag-tag group of farmers was enlisted, which took up shovels, axes, clubs and rocks to go up against the well-armed Royalist forces.
With the brave assistance of Juan Jose de los Reyes Martinez-"Pipila" (Picture 3-Monument to Pipila, overlooking the city), the Insurgentes stormed and briefly gained control of the Alhondiga in Guanajuato, a granary which was converted to a prison to house the indigenous people who refused to work in the mines. As the indigenous prisoners were released, hapless Royalists were rounded up and imprisoned in their place.
Sadly, Father Hidalgo was soon captured, along with his compadres Juan Aldama, Ignacio Allende, and Mariano Jiminez. The leaders were "tried" and executed. Their heads were displayed for nearly ten years, in cages hung at the four corners of the Alhondiga, as a warning to potential rebels of their fate, should they go against the government in power. (Picture 1- corner of the Alhondiga where Allende's head was displayed)
The lives of these brave heroes were not given in vain, however. Independence was eventually won, thanks to their dedication.
The town of Dolores Hidalgo, located between Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende, has rightly earned the title of "Cradle of Independence"!
