Guanajuato-City of Mines

It was tough to leave Uruapan, but we were anxious to for our annual visit to Guanajuato, one of our favorite cities. After a long, challenging day on the road, which included maneuvering through the city of Irapuato as we traveled North, we arrived at the Bugambille RV park, 9 kilometers out of the city. Mexican road signs in the larger cities can be very confusing, when they are even posted. Our two rigs are relatively small though, so when we do get turned around, we have learned to remain calm and look for and then follow the parade of trucks that know the route through the city. The state of Guanajuato is the breadbasket of Mexico, providng plentiful fruits and vegetables as well as a wealth of other natural resouces. In the days when Mexico was known as Nueva Espana and when the resources of Mexico were exploited by Spain, the colonial cities became the centers of insurgency. Many very influential local leaders sacrificed their lives to free Mexico from the clutches of the Spanish empire. The museums in these colonial cities dramatically tell the history of this land. The mines have been closed in Guanajuato for some time and the shafts have become tunnels for streets around the city. There are stairways and narrow alleys that wind up and down and ALL around! It's a great walking city! We bussed into town Sunday morning and walked to the local market, hoping to find some interesting crafts. The Sunday market turned out to offer mainly produce.....so we stocked up on avocados, strawberries and fresh garbanzo beans still in the shell. The vendor sprinkled some lime juice and chile powder on the bean.....yum! Kind of like edamame. The journey back toward centro, on the pedestrian streets provided great photo opportunities! Lots of families were out for their Sunday afternoon strolls through the various squares. I wish I could have taken a picture of one little baby girl dressed in the most beutiful white embroidered dress! We try to not look TOO touristy, so I kept my camera in its case.... We stopped at a sidewalk cafe near the square for a late brunch and enjoyed the orchestra concert. Phil would have been inspired by "Pomp & Circumstance"! A bus ride back to the RV park and cool cerveza ....ahhhh siesta time!

Inland to Uruapan

A day's drive inland North from Lazero Cardenas up highway Mex 37 (a nice toll road with just a few four-footed pedestrians along the edges),found us at elevation 5200 feet, in the city of Uruapan. Maneuvering through the city to our destination Hotel Pie de la Sierra, was a bit difficult, but well worth the challenge! The hotel provided us with a grassy spot to park, water and electricity, use of the pool and internet access, hot showers and a great restaurant with a spectacular view.......five-star accommodations! My kind of resort living! This hotel has not yet been discovered by many gringos and has a narrow access road.....SO, most patrons are local families who use it as a weekend retreat. It was a welcome change from the Ixtapa sand lot.......Friday morning after breakfast in the restaurant, we took a taxi into centro and walked around town, ending up at a national park where springs flow out of the ground.

It was a magical green space...(plants on steroids!).....with walking paths paved with black stones that follow the flow of the water. The rest of the afternoon was spent back at Pie de la Sierra by the pool. I had a nice swim.

Resort Living?

Monday we reached Ixtapa, our southern-most destination on the coast. This town, along with neighboring Zihuatanejo, have morphed into destination resort towns in recent years that have grown to depend increasingly on tourist revenue. Thousands of tourists arrive by RVs, planes, and cruise ships....looking for ways to spend their money.....fishing, fine dining, massages on the beach,shopping for trinkets and goodies in the Zihua marketplace and partying late into the night.

We camped at Playa Linda, a sandy parking lot looking out onto the bay and up at a big pink hotel. Adjacent to the camping area was a sanctuary of sorts with crocodiles fenced in what probably once was a beautiful estuary. The birds.......egrets, wood storks, spoonbills, cormorants, herons, kingfishers, etc.....flocked in to dine on the fish in the marsh, keeping a wary eye on the crocs. Oops! I didn't download pictures from the camera to the computer so I'll edit this and add pics later! You'll enjoy the croc! This " teaser" pic is of a feathered fisherman at Maruata

Tuesday we bussed over to Zihuatanejo for a day of exploring the vendor markets and shops on the waterfront. I think the bus drivers felt it was beneath their macho dignity to slow for the many potholes and bumps on the road between Ixtapa and Zihua, so the rides were REALLY exciting!

We sat in the back of the buses, which magnified the effect of the rides to carnival proportions!After a final day of relaxing, we decided to head inland and up to the mountain city of Uruapan on Thursday......destination: Hotel Pie de la Sierra.

South to Ixtapa

Hola from Uruapan! This is the first opportunity I have had to report on our travels since we left Melaque last Saturday, due to the lack of internet cafes on the beaches along the coast. Since we "free camped" along the way, accommodations were minimal!

After a great reunion with our Melaque friends we've met these past few years, we departed Melaque with friends/travel companions Lonnie and Kathy Dunham and headed south down the coast along a narrow. winding road.....destination: Maruata.... a sleepy little town known for Lupita's fabulous baked goods, magically created throughout the day in her palapa next to the bay....from cinnamon buns in the morning to pizza made to order for dinner. Her reputation is well-deserved!

Next to the bay is an absolutely spectacular stretch of beach where sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs in the sand.

Environmental groups are dedicated to assuring the survival of the turtles by relocating the eggs to protected sites where the eggs are reburied and their progress monitored. Once the baby turtles hatch, they are escorted across the beach and out to the surf where they are released into the ocean without having to run the gauntlet of sea birds who feed on them.

Poachers also compete for the newly laid eggs as a source of food and income. It is a nightly race to see who can follow behind the turtles and collect the eggs just as soon as they are laid. Sometimes, if there is too much light and commotion, the turtles turn around and head back into the ocean without laying their eggs.

These little places are being discovered by travelers from up North who aren't always aware of their impact of their presence.

Sunday, we camped at a public beach further down the coast, along with some other travelers. Glenn, a "mate" from Australia, shared his experiences of traveling the past two years around South America....this done in an old "beater" truck with a canopy. We didn't see the interior of his rig, but he seemed to have a good supply of ice cold beer in the back!

We arrived in Ixtapa Monday....a resort town just south of Lazero Cardenas. The next journal entry will give the details of our three days spent in Ixtapa and the cruise ship destination town of Zihuatanejo, located between Manzanillo and Acapulco. LOTS to share!

Melaque

Stars are brighter here! Orion and the Big Dipper are spectacular!
Street animals abound...feathered and four-legged.
Yesterday's tienges (weekly market) was packed with goodies! Food, crafts, jewelry, clothing, household items. It is a good idea to limit the pesos in the pocket because there are so many tempting things to buy!
We will enjoy some good local food tonight at Taco Surf, just off the town square, to celebrate Larry's birthday!

Sunday Afternoon

Sunday is a time for family in Mexico. We should take note! Work pretty much stops for most people here. Families head out to find a good picnic site.
As I write this, Larry and I are sitting under a big beautiful tree overlooking the ocean. There is a local family of about a dozen people of all ages enjoying a meal together. "Grandpa" was assisted by two men to the seat of honor at the picnic, in the midst of the family.
There is so much tolearn from the Mexican culture! Their values are focused on family, on making the most of time and relationships. Celebrations happen at the drop of a hat!
Time for siesta!

San Blas Sunset

Here we are, after 5 1/2 hours on the road via the libre, the free road......160 miles and a number of "topes".....the MX equivalent of speed bump/stop signs.

It was worth the trip! Paraiso Miramar RV Park, near San Blas has a spectacular view of the ocean; a soft breeze has cooled us down as we drink our cerbezas. The RV Park has a restaurant adjacent to a lawn, shaded by a huge tree. The frigate birds and pelicans are soaring overhead......so yes, Mexico CAN be dangerous!

San Blas is a coastal town located about 1000 miles from the border, above Puerto Vallarta about 100+ miles.

We are looking forward to watching a beautiful sunset!

Off to San Blas

The camper is packed up.......fold up patio table and chairs and the dulcimer are tucked in the back seat. It's been a restful stay here in Maz! I would be content to stay and paint and play the HD, but Larry is getting the travel bug once again! No complaints from me though. There is the museum of masks in Zacatecas, shopping in Tonola, friends in Melaque.....
It will be a few days before I will be able to update....
It's great to get responses! I'll be adding pictures as we move along the road

Patio Garden

This beautiful plant is right next to our patio!

On to Melaque

The autobus has just delivered us back to Playa Escondido RV Park from the mercado in centro - the "Old Town" market that takes up a city block and is packed with all manner of food, clothing, and items wanted/needed by the Mazatlan population......Kind of a glorified farmers market. We bought some provisions for the trip to Melaque......gawked at some of the goodies.
Saturday, we will depart Maz for San Blas...a great birding destination on the coast. We may hang out for a day or two and take a boat ride through the mangrove swamps.
From San Blas, we will head to Melaque, where we will meet up with friends and traveling companions Kathy and Lonnie Dunham, Adele Langlands.
More later!

Slowing Down

Okay, THIS is what "after the trees" is all about! Up in the morning for coffee on the "patio", equipped with Spanish language and bird ID books; ride into town on the "chicken bus" (locals
prefer this style of transportation over the more luxurious air conditioned buses) to pick up some groceries at Mega; walk on the beach to watch the sun set...Yes, we are FINALLY relaxing! Pedicure on the patio this afternoon... I DREAMED about this while we were harvesing trees in November/December!
Saturday, we will depart Mazatlan for a while and travel south, down the coast to meet friends in Melaque, a small town near the coastal city of Manzanillo.

In Mazatlan

We are settled in at Playa Escondido RV park, just North of Mazatlan. It is an easy bus ride into town and a good education (the bus ride)! The music is louder here and the traffic is crazier (with the exception of the LA freeway). A few basic recommendations for life in MX. . . wear sunscreen; remember to smile; ALL paper products go in the basket and are NOT flushed (I know, I know....TMI....but IMPORTANT!). Basic vocabulary: please (por favor), thank you (gracias), excuse me (perdon, or con permiso - when you want to get by someone), I am sorry (lo siento). All attempts at speaking español have been regarded positively (maybe a few giggles... do you know that the word for hat and for dog are very similar?!) Bonus language classes! We are camped in the midst of some friendly Quebequois, so I´m practicing my French as well as my Spanish! We are presently at Gran Plaza, an air conditioned mall very similar to Clackamas Town Center. WiFi is a hit and miss thing, so we dive into convenient cybercafes. It is close to siesta time (1:30), so we have to close down for today. From 2 to 4 each afternoon, many stores close down for a nice long lunch break.....a delightfully civilized practice! Mas tarde amigos!